So, I busted myself up pretty badly this weekend while working in the attic. Let me tell you, you can't be too careful when you're working in a attic space. It's dark, there's generally no floor, and there's often not much in the way of headroom.
I was reminded of this over the weekend. Eric and I went up on Saturday to take up two peices of the half finished plywood subfloor, because I wanted tog et some glue down under it before we moved any farther along. This, I figured would help to prevent squeaking floors in the future and also seal the air gaps between the joists and the floor, aiding insulation.
We had no trouble taking up the screws I had put down several weeks ago. The top layer of plywood split in a couple of places, but I was planning to use some wood filler anyway to smooth out the screwholes when all is said and done. I tossed the boards into the eaves as I went, and only one was a full size peice, so it wasn't too tough.
We decided not to take up the start run in the eaves because it will be behind the knee wall and not very likely to squeak, though I do supppose it could've benefited from the air sealing. Perhaps I'll apply a line of caulk to it before I close everything up.
The first sheet's glue (I use PL Premium - HoH swears on it) went on without any real trouble. The only issue was that it was dark and the glue is brown and so iwas the wood, so I wasn't really sure if I was using enough or too much. If I had it to do over I'd get better lighting. Oh, and the stuff smells a little funny, so maybe I'd turn on the vent fan too. Anyway, I applied a line or two across the tops of all the joists, then I simply grabbed the plywood and slid it over and into place. It was relatively easy to line it up just where it had been before because it was flush asgainst the gable wall and the T&G gets pounded into place along the other floorboards.
So, this is where I ran into a little trouble. The next board was a full board, and I had to slide out intot eh middle of the open ceiling to reach the far side. The cualk gun I used to apply the glue takes a lot of body english to squeeze the stuff out, and as I was applying a line that was difficult to reach, I slipped and knocked my little seat board, a roughly 4 ft. peice of 2x8 scrap, out from under myself. The board tumbled to the ground in the boys' bedroom and bounced around a bit before hitting the floor.
I did noticably less bouncing as I tumbled over on my side and barely caught myself between the joist under my knee and the one that was suddenly just under my armpit, It slammed into my side with a force I'd say is about equal to being hit in the side with a baseball bat at full swing. Actually, because it was thinner than a bat, and more square, it was really more like one of those wooden katanas they use for practice.
It left me reeling and I developed quite a nasty bruise from the impact, as well as a complete inability to focus on much of anything for a few days. Of course pain makes concentration more difficult. I can only take so much ibuprophen before my stomach rebels.
Nevertheless, I already had glue drying, so I had to finish what I was doing before I could even stop. I got the rest of the glue for the peice on, tooka short break, and then muscled through the remiaining smaller board. I didn't accomplish any more work fro the rest of the day after that.
Fortunately, the next day I was able to muster up some energy and cut through the pain. Eric and I were laying in the next run of cross braces between the joists. We've been putting them every 4 feet, so as to line up with the joints between T&G plywood sheets. It may be a bit more than code requires, but everything about this floor so far has been.
We had measured everything the day before, so I took to cutting the wood. I have to say that after several sessions using the handheld circular saw, I am getting pretty good for a blind guy. The laser sight helps a lot, as does overcoming the general fear of the thing. Also, you have to set the blad depth just right to avoid the extra resistence that comes from cutting just across the sruface of the board below, and you need to keep in mind how the wood will shift, which side of the blade the line is on, and how your own natural arc of arm motion will affect the cut. After trying this kung fu many times, I have gotten to a nice place where my cuts are almost always true and square, and if they are off it's generally only by a 1/16 of an inch or less. Even so, if you have a chop saw or table saw that can do the job instead, I think that'd absolutely be faster.
Earlier, we had already penciled out guidelines on the joists where the braces needed to go. I'd marked with a sharpee the top of every joist at exactly 4 feet from the previous floorboards' edge. Unlike before when we were hanging the braces from an open ceiling below, we were now doing this above and the ceiling below us was still "intact", so I couldn't use the carpenters square.
Instead, I used a peice of small posterboard with marks every 1/2" to draw square vertical lines offset by 1/2" and 1" respectively from the 4' markings. This gave me 2 lines that were 1 1/2" apart to place the two-by between. In each space between joists, I alternated which way to do the offsets so that the boards would be staggered by only 1/2". This gives them the ability to brace on another, but also provides enough room to end-screw into the boards without much in the way of toenailing. A slight angle to allow for the drill is all that is really needed.
Bringing our wood upstairs, we set everything up: plenty of screws, a hammer and a peice of bashing wood (so as not to mark up the braces themselves), and my drill. I would test fit each board and was surprised that most fit very well this time. (My earlier bracing was much less accurate.) I had one that needed to be trimmed down by a quarter inch, which turned out to be caused by the joist pitching to one side which was throwing my measurement off by a lot. If any contractor ever tell syou that you don't need braces in a floor, or that you don't need them soon after installing the joists, fire him immediately. These joists did not take long to pitch out, especailly after being secured to the existing rafters.
Some of the braces gave me trouble because of the pitch, and I was able to partly straighten this out. Since i knew my cuts were true, I lined up my brace to the pitching side and screwed it in with three screws, then I applied some pounding and someweight to bring the other side down. The screws held the joist and un-pitched it to a certain extent. The hard part was keeping weight and leverage on the other side while trying to screw it in - a skinny 11 year old is really not heavy enough for this.
I left the last brace out so we'll have enough room to bring up two full 4x8 peices of plywood. I really didn't get naything meaningful done after that. By then, my injuury from the day before had caught up with me. Later I plan to put in some insulation under the subfloor, and have some of the wiring done in the bathroom ceiling before I close it up.
Update:
As it turned out, I broke one of my ribs in the fall, but didn't discover it until the following Friday. I was sitting in my cube minding my own business when I sneezed. The muscle spazm must've finished off what the fall started, because the pain split my midsection like an axe.
I've never actually felt so much pain that I felt dizzy and nausious, but this time I sure did. I nearly passed out, so a visit to the doctor was definitely in ordr even if there was little they could do. An x-ray confirmed that I'd definitly cracked one rib - at least part-way through.
Surprisingly, only a few days later I'm on the mend - and not only was I able to stop using the Vikadin (sp?), but I also cut back the Ibuprofen to almost nothing.