Oct15

Ahh, the Joist (and Pain) of Attic Rennovation!

So, I busted myself up pretty badly this weekend while working in the attic. Let me tell you, you can't be too careful when you're working in a attic space. It's dark, there's generally no floor, and there's often not much in the way of headroom.
 
I was reminded of this over the weekend. Eric and I went up on Saturday to take up two peices of the half finished plywood subfloor, because I wanted tog et some glue down under it before we moved any farther along. This, I figured would help to prevent squeaking floors in the future and also seal the air gaps between the joists and the floor, aiding insulation.
 
We had no trouble taking up the screws I had put down several weeks ago. The top layer of plywood split in a couple of places, but I was planning to use some wood filler anyway to smooth out the screwholes when all is said and done. I tossed the boards into the eaves as I went, and only one was a full size peice, so it wasn't too tough.
 
We decided not to take up the start run in the eaves because it will be behind the knee wall and not very likely to squeak, though I do supppose it could've benefited from the air sealing. Perhaps I'll apply a line of caulk to it before I close everything up.
 
The first sheet's glue (I use PL Premium - HoH swears on it) went on without any real trouble. The only issue was that it was dark and the glue is brown and so iwas the wood, so I wasn't really sure if I was using enough or too much. If I had it to do over I'd get better lighting. Oh, and the stuff smells a little funny, so maybe I'd turn on the vent fan too. Anyway, I applied a line or two across the tops of all the joists, then I simply grabbed the plywood and slid it over and into place. It was relatively easy to line it up just where it had been before because it was flush asgainst the gable wall and the T&G gets pounded into place along the other floorboards.
 
So, this is where I ran into a little trouble. The next board was a full board, and I had to slide out intot eh middle of the open ceiling to reach the far side. The cualk gun I used to apply the glue takes a lot of body english to squeeze the stuff out, and as I was applying a line that was difficult to reach, I slipped and knocked my little seat board, a roughly 4 ft. peice of 2x8 scrap, out from under myself. The board tumbled to the ground in the boys' bedroom and bounced around a bit before hitting the floor.
 
I did noticably less bouncing as I tumbled over on my side and barely caught myself between the joist under my knee and the one that was suddenly just under my armpit, It slammed into my side with a force I'd say is about equal to being hit in the side with a baseball bat at full swing. Actually, because it was thinner than a bat, and more square, it was really more like one of those wooden katanas they use for practice.
 
It left me reeling and I developed quite a nasty bruise from the impact, as well as a complete inability to focus on much of anything for a few days. Of course pain makes concentration more difficult. I can only take so much ibuprophen before my stomach rebels.
 
Nevertheless, I already had glue drying, so I had to finish what I was doing before I could even stop. I got the rest of the glue for the peice on, tooka  short break, and then muscled through the remiaining smaller board. I didn't accomplish any more work fro the rest of the day after that.
 
Fortunately, the next day I was able to muster up some energy and cut through the pain. Eric and I were laying in the next run of cross braces between the joists. We've been putting them every 4 feet, so as to line up with the joints between T&G plywood sheets. It may be a bit more than code requires, but everything about this floor so far has been.
 
We had measured everything the day before, so I took to cutting the wood. I have to say that after several sessions using the handheld circular saw, I am getting pretty good for a blind guy. The laser sight helps a lot, as does overcoming the general fear of the thing. Also, you have to set the blad depth just right to avoid the extra resistence that comes from cutting just across the sruface of the board below, and you need to keep in mind how the wood will shift, which side of the blade the line is on, and how your own natural arc of arm motion will affect the cut. After trying this kung fu many times, I have gotten to a nice place where my cuts are almost always true and square, and if they are off it's generally only by a 1/16 of an inch or less. Even so, if you have a chop saw or table saw that can do the job instead, I think that'd absolutely be faster.
 
Earlier, we had already penciled out guidelines on the joists where the braces needed to go. I'd marked with a sharpee the top of every joist at exactly 4 feet from the previous floorboards' edge. Unlike before when we were hanging the braces from an open ceiling below, we were now doing this above and the ceiling below us was still "intact", so I couldn't use the carpenters square.
 
Instead, I used a peice of small posterboard with marks every 1/2" to draw square vertical lines offset by 1/2" and 1" respectively from the 4' markings. This gave me 2 lines that were 1 1/2" apart to place the two-by between. In each space between joists, I alternated which way to do the offsets so that the boards would be staggered by only 1/2". This gives them the ability to brace on another, but also provides enough room to end-screw into the boards without much in the way of toenailing. A slight angle to allow for the drill is all that is really needed.
 
Bringing our wood upstairs, we set everything up: plenty of screws, a hammer and a peice of bashing wood (so as not to mark up the braces themselves), and my drill. I would test fit each board and was surprised that most fit very well this time. (My earlier bracing was much less accurate.) I had one that needed to be trimmed down by a quarter inch, which turned out to be caused by the joist pitching to one side which was throwing my measurement off by a lot. If any contractor ever tell syou that you don't need braces in a floor, or that you don't need them soon after installing the joists, fire him immediately. These joists did not take long to pitch out, especailly after being secured to the existing rafters.
 
Some of the braces gave me trouble because of the pitch, and I was able to partly straighten this out. Since i knew my cuts were true, I lined up my brace to the pitching side and screwed it in with three screws, then I applied some pounding and someweight to bring the other side down. The screws held the joist and un-pitched it to a certain extent. The hard part was keeping weight and leverage on the other side while trying to screw it in - a skinny 11 year old is really not heavy enough for this.
 
I left the last brace out so we'll have enough room to bring up two full 4x8 peices of plywood. I really didn't get naything meaningful done after that. By then, my injuury from the day before had caught up with me. Later I plan to put in some insulation under the subfloor, and have some of the wiring done in the bathroom ceiling before I close it up.
 
Update:
As it turned out, I broke one of my ribs in the fall, but didn't discover it until the following Friday. I was sitting in my cube minding my own business when I sneezed. The muscle spazm must've finished off what the fall started, because the pain split my midsection like an axe.
 
I've never actually felt so much pain that I felt dizzy and nausious, but this time I sure did. I nearly passed out, so a visit to the doctor was definitely in ordr even if there was little they could do. An x-ray confirmed that I'd definitly cracked one rib - at least part-way through.
 
Surprisingly, only a few days later I'm on the mend - and not only was I able to stop using the Vikadin (sp?), but I also cut back the Ibuprofen to almost nothing.
Published: Oct-15-07 | 0  Comment | 0  Link to this post

Jun18

Breaking the Mold

We hadn't been in our basement for a while, even though my friend James lives down there - or maybe because of it. Recently, after finishing the basement door, we went down there to clean up a real mess in the front part where there's the huge pile of unexcavated dirt. The cats had been using it as a gigantic litter box for nearly a year. In the end, cleanup meant bagging and carrying out as many as ten bags of dirt. While we were down there, I was reminded of the little wooden closet (about 3' by 6') in the back of the basement beneath our side porch. It's a little wooden box of OSB with a cheap door that we had decided not to demolish when we demoed the "finished" basement two years ago.

 

In retrospect, not destroying the closet was a mistake. I think I have been heavily influenced by Mike Holmes from Holmes on Homes. In a recent episode, he was working with a family who had leaky windows and mold in their walls. Though we didn't know that there were moisture and mold problems in this closet at the time we did the rest of the basement, we missed an opportunity to uncover the problem.

 

The issue here was two-fold. Firstly, the closet was poorly constructed in the first place. It was made with 2x3s and OSB, with the bare wood placed directly against the flagstone foundation and floor. Since the floor of our basement is earth, there was a reasonable chance that the wood here was laid down directly on DIRT. As if this was not enough, it seems as though the pipe that runs to the garden hose hookup outside had begun to leak, and the previous owners solved this problem by turning it off at the valve inside the house. Being very forgetful people, we have a tendency to forget to do this. As a result, the ground near the porch tends to saturate with water, especially in the summer when the garden hose is most used.

 

It didn't take long for it to get bad, but because it had a door, we left the closet mostly unused and ignored for two summers. The funny thing is that we weren't really using it, which was our rationale for not demolishing it in the first place. All the while, the mold continued to grow.

 

Now, there was no way for us to know for sure that the mold in the basement was affecting our family. We didn't do any kind of air quality test or spore count. Such tests exist, but I don't personally believe they are worthwhile if you don't have the money for professional mold mitigation. Until recently, we have had bigger fish to fry: lead abatement, electrical problems, rooms without walls and ceilings, an aborted project to finish our attic space, etc, etc, etc.

 

But, slowly it has started to sink in to my little brain that we might be hurt from this problem in serious ways. Each spring since we bought the house in 2005, I have suffered from great difficulty breathing that feels like a kind of bronchitis. The first year, I had assumed that I was sick. The second spring, I believed it was the long term effect of plaster dust from demolition - a perfectly reasonable and possibly partially correct belief. This past spring, I was really starting to wonder, since I hadn't done any work in a while on account of being ill and tired much of the time.

 

Here is a list of some of the symptoms we experienced that correspond to the symptoms of mold contamination.

 

·                     Otherwise normally healthy inhabitants are ill unusually often or for long periods of time (months instead of weeks).

·                     People have difficulty breathing, severe allergy, asthma, or bronchitis like symptoms.

·                     Symptoms are worst on damp or rainy days.

 

Whatever the risk, it seemed reasonable to think that we were not dealing with any "toxic" mold or else things would have been much worse. Given that we were already suffering from whatever was growing there, I decided the best thing would be to get it out of our house as fast as possible.

 

Firstly, I will say that I would never try this in the wintertime. We have decent ventilation and a couple of HEPA vacuums, but there is a significant risk that if you carry moldy stuff through your living area, you'll just make the problem worse - at least in the short run. Our strategy for dealing with this was not great - put everything we could into contractor bags before carrying it up, carry everything else out quickly and carefully, and ventilate and vacuum diligently. If I had been more concerned with what I saw, I might've put up a vapor barrier between the passageway out of our house and the living room, but as it happens it didn't seem to be too necessary. In the final analysis we were probably just taking unnecessary chances and got lucky.

 

So, Saturday was entirely consumed by demolition. I can only be thankful that the closet was so shoddily built; it made for a far easier destruction. To keep the risk to the family low, I was the only one working in the enclosed space. We couldn't find the respirator, so I had to make due with a dust mask - not good.

 

So what did my destruction reveal? Well, firstly, the flagstone foundation walls to our house are maybe 3 feet thick or more. This was our first peek at the full width of the foundation and eases my mind about the crumbling mortar I have seen between the stones; they aren't going anywhere in a hurry. Second, the back of the closet is dug all the way out to the foundation of our porch, which appears to be a cinder block wall built on a small and sloppy looking concrete footer. It's not far below the soil line and maybe it's not even below the frost line, which would be bad. Below the foundation, the closet was dug out into the clay soil. You can see the roots from the bushes protruding from it in search for water. On either side of the closet the flag stones seem to get wider as you go up, where you'd expect them to be getting narrower. Perhaps this was an outside exit at some point in the past? The floor of the closet had a poured concrete slab going all the way to the back, which surprised me. The earth in the back had begun to erode and appears to have undercut the porch foundation and stones by about 3-6 inches, so clearly we don't want to leave it this way indefinitely. We could do a lot to stop this erosion by ensuring that we aren't adding any additional water to the soil via our garden hose. It's now very clear where the water that rotted the wood must've come from.

 

[Insert Picture Here]

 

I was breaking the OSB into chunks that would fit in a 6 mil contractor bags. We couldn't really do much about the larger pieces and the longest of the 2x3s. Alara carried the larger wood and most of the bags upstairs and out of the house while I continued to work. After several hours of bashing away with a pry bar, I was covered with sweat. In fact, my clothes were damp and quickly became so chilly that I got the shakes and had to change them.

 

I would set aside the entire day if you intend to do this kind of work on your own - either with or without the mold. You'd be surprised how much framing there is in a small closet, and at the end of the day you will probably not want to work anymore anyway. I spent the "extra" time going over the bathroom ceiling with some bleach to get rid of pesky mold spots that were growing there, and helping with the vac & vent operations to do our best to clean the house of any spores and exchange the air - as much for the bleach smell as anything the mold might've done to impact the air quality.

 

One suggestion I can make is that you should keep a reciprocating saw (jigsaw, saws-all, or both) handy. In my case, there were lots of places where these tools wouldn't work well because of closeness to the stone, unknowns behind the wood, or a desire to reduce the amount of dust. However, there were really tough points where not having them would have brought work to a standstill or frustrated me to the point of total collapse. (It is deeply satisfying to take a saw to a particularly stubborn stud and watch it fold like a paper napkin.)

 

Maybe it's all in my head, but I actually felt like I was breathing a little easier yesterday.

Published: Jun-18-07 | 0  Comment | 0  Link to this post

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